My first choice in medicating dogs is to treat it like a treat if they love their treats. Hide the pill in a smelly moist treat or teaspoon of tinned food. You only need enough treat to cover the pill… not a whole cheese slice for example. A dog cookie with just enough peanut butter on it to make the pill stick to it works for some dogs, like Goldens who gulp first, ask questions later.
For some dogs, “pilling” them might be the only option to ensure they get the whole dose. May not work for aggressive dogs, and watch your fingers don’t get hinged in their molars, even with friendly dogs. Open their mouth, drop the pill in the back of their throat, hold their mouth almost shut, and try blowing on their nose, or rubbing their throat. They will lick their nose and the pill will go down. It’s much harder to swallow if your holding their mouth firmly shut and they can’t lick their nose, but don’t let them open their mouth too wide, or they will chew or spit out the pill.
It’s a good idea to practice giving meds or bandaging your dog before they need it! Turn it into a positive training experience!
Types of Medications
Compressed Powder – If ½ a pill is needed most pills can easily be divided in half by placing it on a hard counter top and pressing down on each side of the pill, cracking it down the center. These pills easily absorb moisture and start to break down quickly and can make a mess if you don't get it down the hatch fast enough. If hiding in canned food, be sure the dog hovers food.
Coated Compressed – These are much harder to break in half if small and usually require a sharp knife or a pill cutter. Some coated pills are not to be broken or crushed. To crush pills into powder, two spoons nested together work, or any hard objects. Be cautious, some pills can fly.
Gel caps (full of powder or liquid) – The gel easily gets sticky and can make it hard to swallow if you don’t get it right the first time. Some pills are easily pulled apart and the contents can be sprinkled on food. Some pills taste so bad even labradors might not eat them. Don't sprinkle the powder on dry food, it often falls to the bottom and the whole dose isn’t eaten.
Liquid – Again, if the dog loves food, put it on their meal, but if they are fussy you must give it orally. Use the side cheek pouch, no need to open their jaw. Hold their head nicely and put the syringe in the cheek and slowly dribble in so they can keep swallowing.
Eye Drops – Beards make a great handle for you to hold with one hand, or gently hold their muzzle to prevent them from moving. Hold the dropper in the other hand, place your pinky finger on their eyebrow and gently slide the skin up and open their eye wider. Hold the dropper fairly close to their eye and over the whites of their eye if you can so they don’t see it coming. Gently squeeze the dropper then give some warm praise and a treat for staying so still.
Eye Creams – Creams might say ½ inch ribbon for example. Use the same method as drops, and try not to contaminate the applicator when you apply it to the eye. Gently rubbing the eye lids help work the cream in. Eyelashes sometimes catch the ribbon of cream and it doesn’t get in the eye.
Topical Creams – Aside from following the directions for your specific cream, sometimes cleansing the area before applying is necessary, and clipping the hair around the wound to prevent it from collecting goop or sticking to the wound can speed up the healing process. Some dogs lick off creams; try applying it before they go for a walk so they are busy or you may have to turn them into a cone head for a bit.
Ear Cleaner – Cleaners usually ‘flood’ the ear to help break up the waxy debris. Lift the flap of the ear gently and that will open the ear canal. Apply liberally or according to the directions while still holding the ear/head steady. Massage the base of the ear with your other hand, listen for it sloshing and hold until you are ready to let them shake. 10-30 seconds is great, and you may repeat the process for especially mucky ears. Outside is best, or you will get ear cleaner up and down your walls, floor and ceiling. Once they finish shaking, wipe the flap of the ear with a soft cloth or gauze. Never use anything linty. For dogs with large ear canals, wrap your finger with gauze and gently wipe the canal… not usually recommended because you can push more gunk into the ear. Avoid alcohol based cleaners, especially sore infected ears, ouch.
Ear Powder – Powders can be used to dry the ear after cleaning, but I don’t recommend them, especially if you are applying medications. Some dogs have chronic moist ears and may require help keeping them dry. Your groomer or veterinarian can advise you on what your dog needs. Ear powders also help groomers pluck hair out of dogs ears.
Ear Meds – Once the ear is clean, some dogs require meds to treat infection that cleaning alone will not cure. Using the same method to hold the ear open, drip the med down into the canal, and rub the side of their head. Most dogs with ear problems get very head shy, but with the right method, your dog will groan as you rub their ear.